Monday 30th June

For a change this morning, we were on the road by 0730. This came about due to photos of the sunrise being taken at Devil’s Marbles. The colours were changing by the minute. There were people up on top of the rocks to gain an early sight to the sun rise over the eastern ranges and also the colours of the night sky behind them.

We drove the 102 kms into Tennant Creek where the inevitable emptying of the toilet cassette was carried out. It only takes a few moments to carry out the whole procedure from taking it from the Karavan until it is replaced.

After that ‘job’, we had a little more of a look around the town. Our opinion had not changed overnight except to say that there are some nice and well cared for homes in the town, too. As we completed our drive around, we rejoined the Stuart Highway, northbound, for the “Three Ways Roadhouse” to have another expensive coffee and muffin. There did not appear to be much in the way of cafes in the town and that is why we returned to the Roadhouse.

When our morning coffee and muffin were consumed, we then left for the north again. AS we travelled along the highway, we passed several stations belonging to the famous Kidman Pastoral Empire.

By lunch time, we had reached Renner Springs, 161 kms north of Tennant Creek. We contemplated staying there in the caravan park but decided it was a bit too basic. So we had lunch there in the Renner Springs Desert Hotel/Motel. Food was good and quite reasonable but diesel was $2.28 cents per litre. The Bravo still has enough to; hopefully, get us to somewhat cheaper fuel.

Renner Springs, we learnt, was named after Dr. Frederick Renner who was Medical Officer to the workers on the Overland Telegraph Line. It was also used by the military during the Second World War as a meal location for troops going north or south, usually for lunch or dinner. There is a spring there and is visible. Otherwise, the surrounding area is covered in low scrub and some trees with lots of stony ground, too.

We then drove on a further 90 kms to Elliott, which has now put us about 252 kms north of Tennant Creek. It is the second largest town on the Barkly after Tennant Creek. It was named after an Army Captain Reginald Douglas Elliott, MBE. This area was a staging camp during WWII. The town originally was a service centre to the pastoral stations in the region especially during the droving days which have now gone due to the introduction of road trains. It is a bit tidier than Tennant Creek. There is even a golf course, not that we will be using it.

Tonight we are setup in the Midland Caravan Park in Elliott. The Office has a store and post office as well as selling fuel. There is a pool here that Prue has had a swim in. The temperature is around 30 degrees. This is winter and there is no humidity. Very different to home.

Sunday 29th June

This morning we packed up quite quickly again as we did not have the awning out again. Our time of departure from Barkly Homestead Roadhouse was about 0830. We were not the first to leave or the last. There were numerous familiar vans that passed us by. They obviously do not worry about the cost of fuel.

About 1100 we arrived at “The Three Ways Roadhouse” and had our cappuccino for the day. Its cost left any of the up market cafes far behind. A large cappuccino was $4.50 and a muffin was much the same. One might say they have a captive clientele.

We then had a look at the diesel price and it was $2.23 cents per litre at “The Three Ways Roadhouse”. Many people had warned us of the excessive price here and at Barkly Homestead Roadhouse. After seeing this, we drove about 23 kms into Tennant Creek as the word is out that it is cheaper there. All reports were correct and we paid $1.99 cents per litre. No discount vouchers in this area.

Originally, we had planned to travel north from Tennant Creek but we had been told about the Devil’s Marbles that are about 102 kms south towards Alice Springs and quite close to the village of Wauchope. As our son, Andrew, said what is a few hundred kms when we are nearly there. So a deviation of about 204 kms. This will probably not be the last deviation.

After refuelling the Bravo, we then went and visited the Bill Allen Lookout. From what we could read at the lookout, Bill Allen was a supervisor of the stock routes across the lower half of the Northern Territory. He lived mainly in Tennant Creek, especially in his latter years of his work. He was on the town committee for 13 years and when he started the town only had 2 streets that were tar sealed. He was instrumental in getting reticulated water, sewerage and electricity into the town. It looks a reasonable town.

However, being a Sunday morning we saw many aborigines waiting to gain access to the hotels. Their homes looked quite dilapidated and uncared for with washing hanging on the fences that were still standing. Along the road we saw 3 aborigines, one being a child, walking into town with no footwear and looking quite ragged. My guess is that we will get used to this spectacle as we travel.

We arrived at Devils Marbles about 1400 and had a late lunch and watched the remote caravan free park fill up with people from everywhere including Mannheim, Germany. There are more than 24 caravans, motor homes, slide on campers and tents in the parking area. All that is here is a pit toilet! The scenery is spectacular and both of us have climbed the Devils Marbles not only for some exercise but also to take some incredible photos.

Some of the included photos are of the Devils Marbles both prior to and during sunset. There is one very ‘natural’ looking one! Prue took the sunset ones and the natural one! J

Saturday 28th June

We stayed overnight in the Avon Downs rest area with about 24 other travellers. After having been breathalysed when we arrived yesterday, we decided we should have a few nice reds with our BBQ dinner.

The night was quite uneventful other than a visit from two young fellows, who had broken down with their rental truck and east bound, looking to buy a beer or 3. They had broken their wheel spanner and several others from other vehicles. They believed that the wheel nuts had been over tightened by an air tool. We could not help them as we only carry red wine!!

Pack up this morning was quite quick as we did not deploy the awning for an overnight stop. We have been managing without the awning on overnight stops.

Along the way, we stopped and had a morning cuppa in a rest stop just over 90 minutes from our overnight stop. There were numerous others doing the same thing.

The scenery is not monotonous during to the changing trees, shrubs,termite mounds or even lack of any foliage and only limited amounts of grass. We noticed where the local aborigines have burnt the land there is a green tinge from the grass butts. The shrubby foliage appears to burn off and so leaves a clearer patch of land. There were a large number of hectares burnt that were visible from the road. Quite often the horizon displays a radio repeater tower and each one is quite high. Sometimes the horizon disappears but then either a few little rises or trees or shrubs change it.

We planned a quite short run today to Barkly Homestead Roadhouse. It was only about 220 kms from our overnight stop. We arrived here quite early which allowed us to pick the spot we wanted in the caravan park. There is water, good quality, and power to each sight. Nearby there is an ablution block which has a washing machine available. The power is from a very large generator that we can hear running quietly nearby. No Country Energy type power out here.

Barkly Homestead Roadhouse is quite an establishment with not only Caravan Park but also a small motel. Inside there is a small shop with very basic supplies and fuel outside. Adjacent to this part is a restaurant on the east side and on the west side a tavern which was great to watch the Wallabies beat France in Rugby. So much for Northern Hemisphere Rugby!

Fuel prices are going up as we go. We noticed the price here to be $2.15 per litre. We are going to have to get used to the price and there will be similar prices on the coast by the time we get home by the sound of the rising oil prices. I have trimmed the Bravo to rev out at around 2750 rpm and at this setting it is returning about 15.41 litres per 100 kms. That is really good when the all up loaded weight is around the 3.5 tonnes.

This afternoon, I gave a massage, as well as brushing flies away from my face, in the biggest room yet. In the shade under a tree! It brought plenty of looks from afar but reminded me of doing massage on the NSW Big Ride. It was appreciated.

We have just made, for the first time on this trip, a cappuccino with brewed coffee and heated milk then whizzed up, with a battery operated stirrer, to form some froth. Yum!!!

Friday 27th June

This morning it was pack up and say good bye to Mt. Isa. When we actually removed ourselves from bed, at the early hour of 0630, the dismantling of the annex commenced. The fold up chairs and table were packed into their bags. Then the annex, which was supervised during construction by our good friend Angie, was lowered on the poles first followed by their total removal and storage. Then the annex was removed from the Karavan while it was still up then folded and stowed. Then the KK was lowered for travel.

When we left the Sunset Caravan Park, where we had been for the past 3 nights, we went and refuelled. The diesel price at the Shell station in Mt. Isa was 179.9 cents per litre minus 4cents discount for having shopped at Coles supermarket and another 2 cents off from purchasing some items after loading with fuel. The diesel tank for the heating and cooking was also topped up as was the diesel and petrol jerry cans locked onto the Karavan.

After that quite expensive event, we went to post some letters and cards at the Post Office. Then, before we could do anything else, we visited Gloria Jean’s for coffee. Apparently it is the best place for coffee in Mt. Isa as the Police seem to sniff out the best places in any town or city.

Following our coffee stop, we then went and spent some time at the Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) base in Mt. Isa. We looked over the many items of history in relation to the RFDS especially in and around Mt. Isa. When looking through the mid 1960s history we came across many articles of interest about Dr. David Cooke who used to be one of our Doctors in Gunnedah for quite a while and now is in Port Macquarie. He was very young then having not long graduated from Sydney University Medical School. He already was a commercial pilot and owned his own aircraft, an Auster, which remained in Sydney. We also purchased a few items from the RFDS shop.

From there we moved out of Mt. Isa on the Barkly Highway. We had decided that we would stop and have sandwiches for lunch at a rest stop along the way. Quite a few other travellers were there too.

After our lunch break, we travelled on to Camooweal. It is just a little village on the highway about 23 kms from the Northern Territory border. We stopped and walked along most of the main street and had a coffee in the Post Office which is also a general store and internet cafe. By now, we had travelled at least 180 kms for the day.

We travelled about another 70 kms to a free park at Avon Downs opposite the Police Station. As I indicated to turn in to the camp site, I was breathalysed by the Police Officer and he did a registration check of my Bravo and the Kimberley Karavan. He was very pleasant and chatted telling us he was an escapee from the Sydney rat race.

Other than large cattle yards about 2 kms to the south east and the Police station there is not much more around except about 20 camping units, caravans, motor homes and camper trailers. So a night with numerous travellers from all over the country and possibly overseas, too.

Thursday 26th June

This late arrival of the sun rise makes us sleep in. It also may as a result of the sampling of red wine the previous evening! No, I believe it is because we are so far west of the coast. No wonder daylight saving would not work out here. It is similar in Western Australia when you compare those locations near the eastern border with those on the western border. There is a vast time of sun rise difference.

Today, we first went to the Mt. Isa School of the Air. It is an amazing concept, using telephone hook ups these days, and allows children the opportunity to receive education from Prep or pre-school to year 10. In days gone by, the children used the Royal Flying Doctor Service (RFDS) High Frequency (HF) Radio system for their lessons.

There are specific teachers chosen to teach various grades and later also various subjects. Even German is taught to the children. There are about 200 children reliant on the Mt. Isa School of the Air. They are as far away as Normanton in the north, Birdsville in the south, Brunette Downs in the west and quite a way east. Some are as close as 60 kms away but have no bus service.

We were privileged to sit in on a class of Prep children, ages 5 or just 6, with their teacher, Miss Forbes. It was really fascinating to watch Miss Forbes react with her class. She is a first year out teacher, who grew up at Warwick, Qld. She is just completing her first half year as a teacher. She is very dedicated to those children.

Listening to those children with their replies was really interesting and, as you can imagine, some of the replies were priceless. Miss Forbes sometimes was amazing to see her compose herself after some of the comments. It was an education to us to watch this in action and also how the mail out of subject material is handled, especially with most children having 1 mail service each week and during the wet season, may be not mail out until March.

When we left the School of the Air, we then went for a tour of the Underground Hospital. With the advent of World War II the impact on Australia was not great until the bombing in 1942 of Darwin. The work on defending the top end of Australia caused the influx of thousands of American troops into Northwest Queensland from April 1942. With the bombing of the Darwin Hospital, precautions were taken to protect the Mount Isa district hospital in the event of an air raid.

It was decided to excavate a large air-raid shelter, designed to function as a fully equipped underground hospital, on the hospital reserve. The underground hospital was excavated by miners working in their spare time and at the weekends. It was equipped with male, female and maternity/children's wards, a surgical theatre and a delivery room.

Once a week there was an air-raid drill, when nurses and orderlies wheeled less-seriously-ill patients up the gravel path to the hospital. Fortunately no Japanese bombers ever came to Mount Isa. Eventually the air-raid drills stopped, but the hospital remained in use for less urgent purposes.

There is also a marvellous medical museum with some horrific looking items including the horrible ether masks that I remember as a child.

In the late afternoon some stocking up on supplies for our departure to more remote areas for a few days. On our way back to our Kimberley Karavan, we went to the town lookout to see the panorama of Mt. Isa. Then I went for a 33 km bike ride to Lake Moongarra and return. Then out for Dinner to the quite big Irish Club. Transport to and from was by the Irish Club Courtesy bus.

It may be a few days before I am to do a post as we are going a little more remote to Camooweal and Barkly Homestead over the next few days.

Wednesday 25th June

Well, after another late start, as the sun does not get up until quite late especially when the hills to the east hold the sun rise out until even later. Anyway, we had a nice omelette for breakfast. Just as well as we walked to today’s major attraction for us, the “Outback at Isa” located next to the information centre.

We spent the largest part of the day at the “Outback at Isa”. Prue and I agree that it is one of the best exhibitions we have seen so far this trip. Maybe this was because we experienced nice coffees, and also lunch, in the Centre and did not have to go looking for it.

After we paid for our entrance fee, to view the contents of the centre, we went into the theatrette. We watched a wonderful show in the Isa Experience Gallery which is an interactive, multi-media gallery interpreting the region's fascinating cultural, indigenous, pioneering and mining heritage. It succeeds in escaping the stereotype of a stuffy museum through the fascinating and informative interactive displays which showcase the rich history of Mount Isa.

After doing the Isa Experience Gallery thoroughly, we then viewed the Outback Park that is an extensive creative landscape that captures visitors' attention and imagination, with a central lagoon surrounded by lush native plantings and a Lawn Hill gorge inspired waterfall. It is really well done and most relaxing to wander through.

After we had lunch, we then went into the Riversleigh Fossil Centre that educates and interprets the fossils extracted from the nearby World-heritage Riversleigh fossil fields. These finds have been depicted as dioramas and exhibited in an authentic setting to illustrate the unique discoveries in one of the world's richest fossil fields. Unlike many other fossil deposits, the Riversleigh fossils are not just a snapshot in time, but a window on the development of early mammal mega fauna over the past 30 million years. It reinforces just how old this planet is and how short a time we have lived in this country.

When we left the “Outback at Isa”, we went and did some shopping in Kmart then walked back to the Sunset Caravan Park. I decided it was time that I donned the overalls and greased the Karavan and checked all underneath. No problems were found. The I organised myself to go for a ride around the town. There are a few reasonable hills to help keep the legs in shape. The traffic is not bad and the roads are really good. Just the odd 3 or 4 trailer road train to feel going past. Thankfully, the road is wide enough for everyone.

By then it was nearly dinner time and the inevitable red wine. This ended a fantastic and informative day in Mt. Isa.

Tuesday 24th June

After a wonderful night at Kynuna, we set off for our day’s destination by way of McKinlay, Cloncurry and finally arriving in Mt. Isa. Our plan changed when we decided to have the night in Kynuna, so we decided to have 3 nights in Mt. Isa.

Not too long after we left Kynuna, we came to the village of McKinlay. It was the pub location for “Crocodile Dundee”. There is not too much else in the village. A few houses, service station and Police Station are what make up the village. Nothing much was open so we could not even have a beer in the pub as it was a little early.

We moved on to Cloncurry and as we moved the scenery changed from flat plains to hilly areas. Cloncurry is not really big but is a well known centre in Queensland. We had our morning coffee in the town and had a bit of a walk around.

After we left Cloncurry, we travelled a short way to the Mary Kathleen uranium mine ruins. We drove in to the area and proceed down the road for some kilometres until the obvious mine sites disappeared. We took a few photos and walked about the area. Then we back tracked on a rough gravel road to the old township where quite a few campers had established themselves on the old house sites. The whole area was extremely dry with not any sign of water anywhere at all. They have had very little rain in this area for some time.

Leaving Mary Kathleen, we rejoined the highway and proceed to Mt. Isa. The scenery changes every moment and even being so dry it creates amazing colours on the hills. As Prue remarked, “The sky is like a pale Sicilian blue”. It is a very different colour and at night the stars are so clear a vivid.

Eventually, we arrived in Mt. Isa and found our Sunset Caravan Park easily in the town and it is really just after the 3^rd set of traffic lights. All the caravan parks are heavily booked. Thankfully, we booked ahead yesterday. When we opened the Karavan, we found we had not secured the fridge door, so almost everything had fallen out. No damage except one broken egg. This was the result of our visit to Mary Kathleen’s great road! We have learnt a little lesson. Check the fridge is secure.

Soon after we were set up and everything was working correctly, I went for a 1 hour ride around the town. I climbed up the lookout hill in my lowest gear as it was really steep. That was really worth the effort. Spoke to a couple from Tweed Heads while I was there.

Tomorrow, after some washing clothes and service on the Bravo and Karavan, we will start our look around Mt. Isa. A little grease for the Karavan suspension and a check over all nuts and bolts.

Monday 23rd June

We left the Gunadoo Caravan Park in Longreach at a respectable hour. Now we are “grey nomads“we keep later hours. This is easier as the sun rises at least 20 minutes later than at home and we get to have more sun light later in the day when we have “sundowners”, in other words, drinks as the sun goes down.

Anyway, we went into the CBD of Longreach which is not very big, perhaps similar to Casino. There are many shops and businesses that are not usually seen on the coast, e.g., saddler. To our liking there were several coffee shops. So as we waited for the shops to open, we had a nice coffee. Soon after, we acquired the items we needed and set off for the day.

We travelled along to road towards Winton. We passed the turn off to where Prue’s brother, Richard, jackarooed in the early 1960s. The countryside varied as we moved along. Sometimes there was either some low scrub or quite clear land. The highway runs alongside the rail line. The road surface was good and wide enough to allow a road train with 4 trailers to pass us.

After a comfortable drive, we arrived in Winton. Here is the home of the Matilda Centre. This is predominantly dealing with A. B (Banjo) Paterson who wrote the world famous “Waltzing Matilda”. One is met by a wonderful electronic display where a ‘ghost’ tells the story of “Waltzing Matilda”. After that a walk through the Centre viewing art and stories of notable people not only from the District but also around Australia. Another electronic display introduces people that are notable performers such as John Williamson and the late Slim Dusty.

A wonderful museum is also attached with many familiar items to us. Even an “Ack-Ack “(anti-aircraft) gun the same as my father used in the Siege of Tobruk.

A joint decision was that we would overnight at the “Blue Heeler” pub at Kynuna. This was a change as we had planned to have a night in Winton and Cloncurry before we went to Mt. Isa. The “Blue Heeler” pub is not to be missed. There are names all over the walls and ceilings and doors. is not to be missed. There are names all over the walls and ceilings and doors. The names are from everywhere imaginable.

Due to no internet or mobile coverage at Kynuna, we did not do a blog or deal with any emails. So we went into the pub and had a few quiet drinks. During this time, we met numerous fellow travellers. Another night of beers and wine and a nice dinner with a real country rump steak, a big one! This cost only $22.00 and was the best I have had for a long time. Our dinner was had with a nice couple from the Sunshine Coast. Dave is a first cousin of Anne Donoghue (ex Tambar Springs). We look forward to catching up with them somewhere else as they are travelling partly the same directions we are going.

There were a large number of campers at Kynuna where it only cost $5.00 for the night. Even the Army transport drivers pulled in for a meal and a few drinks while on a rest break from driving their big transports.

Another great night a new location with new friends.

Sunday 22nd June

Today was a better day than yesterday, although it was still quite cold early. As the day went on, it warmed up much more and the wind abated slightly. The afternoon was warm enough to do a decent bike ride. The first ride since last weekend in Ballina. The wind made up for the lack of hills as it is very flat western country here.

We have been staying in a pleasant caravan park just east of the main part of town, but I have mentioned earlier, it is close to the major attractions of the town. In other words, easy walking to the QANTAS museum and the Stockman Hall of Fame.

We walked to the Stockman Hall of Fame and Heritage Centre. It is very interesting but be prepared to read a lot and see some videos of various events. There is even a video clip that was taken on our farm, in 1984, of the mouse plague that took our sunflower crop. There is also a board relating to Lloyd Bates, from Gunnedah, who was a noted Australian rodeo rider. Sadly, he died young as a result of being crushed by cattle when loading a stock transport. He was invalided for several years after that accident.

There are many displays of articles used by the pioneers that developed this country. Many items having been made in the blacksmith shop on the property. I have memories of seeing many of these items not only on my former family farms but also on the big station I jackarooed on. Some of these items have been modernised or even mass produced for use today.

The Stockman Hall of Fame and Heritage Centre have many facets to it from the time before European settlement happened up until more recent times. A fascinating display was the old post and telegraph systems that I remember as a child, such as the old Morse code telegram machine. Memories of the constant clicking of the machine in the local Post Office. How the Postmaster ever picked up which was for his office, I will never know.

There is a large mention of the Pioneer woman of the bush and more remote towns. The hardship that many had to go through. It seems that about that time across the world that all farming families lived in seemingly very primitive conditions.

There is much mention, too, of the input of the indigenous people to help the new settlers. Some were not helpful at all and actually managed to hinder development as well as attack the settlers violently. However, there is more emphasis of the cooperation between the indigenous and non indigenous people. There are numerous boards that tell the story of the unsung deeds by both groups of people groups of people groups of people.

After that visit, we would recommend you pay a visit as it really tells the stories of how this country has grown up. It especially shows the difficulties that were experienced in the early years. Longreach is a lovely place to spend a few days.