31st July 2008

This morning was a little different in that there was no packing up and moving. It was an exercise morning for us both. Prue went off for a good walk around part of the town. I went off for a ride, on a very dusty bike, around a small portion of the Ord River Irrigation area.

The morning was warming up quite quickly, as it seems to do in this area. I retraced where we had travelled last week. It was rewarding as I saw things at a much slower pace. My ride was a little over 40kms. On my return, I did clean my bike of the dust that had accumulated from the Bungle Bungle road.

After the ride, we were picked up by a member of the Hertz Rental company and taken back to their office. Once there, I signed the papers for the rental on a Toyota Aurion which we are lucky to have. It seems rental vehicles of any description are quite limited. At this time we have it until at least Wednesday next week.

We left Hertz and went and did a little shopping and returned to the Karavan. On return, an email had arrived from the Repair Shop. The quote is for the removal of various parts of the Bravo to enable it to be straightened and then after the second part is added, a metal arch to match the chassis and welded to the chassis. Finally, a paint job to cover the repairs and then reassemble all in readiness for us to take it on. Apparently, this type of problem can and has occured on all makes of 4 wd. None are exempt.

At this time there is no completion date but we hope to have one tomorrow. Once we have that we can then rearrange our trip arrangements. At this moment, we are not out of our arrangements except we are back in Kununurra many days early.

30th July 2008

This morning we awoke after staying in the All Seasons Motel in Kununurra. There was a disturbance during the night caused by the aboriginals on the street not far from our room. This is a common occurrence in this part of the world. Anyway, we had our breakfast and were back in our room when we received a call from NRMA Premium care. He was ensuring that we were all fine and everything was going smoothly. That was nice to have the reassurance someone was watching over us. Premium Care is really worth that extra cost.

We left the Motel and walked the short distance to the Town Caravan Park and dropped our overnight packs there before we went to the Vehicle Repair shop. We paid our Park fees and walked another 500 metres to see our Bravo and Karavan had arrived safely. Even the fridge on the back of the Bravo was plugged into 240 volt power.

After speaking with Darren, who is the Repair Shop owner, we arranged to have one of his staff take our Karavan to the Caravan Park and onto the allocated site. Before long the Karavan and its annex were set up.

A bit later I walked from the Karavan back to the Repair Shop and brought the Bravo into the Caravan Park. This was so we could unload all the items from both the Bravo tray canopy and inside the cab. When this was complete I returned the Bravo to the Repair Shop.

The Repair Shop has taken photos of the damage and they have been emailed to the Insurance Company in Perth. So we wait.

A special thank you to those that have called us following this incident. Your kind words of support have been most welcome.

Tuesday 29th July

Still in the Bungle Bungle. However, this is the day we moved out of here.

The morning was not quite as cold and only down to about 10 degrees, In this area by about 0700 the sun is so warm any jumper or jacket is off and the day just gets warmer seemingly by the minute. It is nice to feel the rapid change.

After breakfast, I set up the massage table as one of the Park staff had asked for a massage. Poor fellow really needed it too. He told me he felt so much better following the massage I gave him. Just neck, shoulders and back was all he needed.

After packing the massage gear up, I went for a short ride into the Park as we really had seen so little of it. After doing this ride, on only rough gravel road, confirmed to me that I will not be a participant on the Westpac “Hell on Wheels Ride”. It was hard and hot work which is not my type of riding. The short rip was for just over an hour and would equal any 1 ½ hour ride on the road bike.

As I returned to the Ranger Station, I noticed a recovery truck in the parking area. Ours was not meant to be there until around 1400 but this was it. So panic happened for a short time. As we had thought we would have lots of time to pack up, it suddenly was only ½ hour. We packed all necessary into the Mazda Bravo as it was to be winched onto a tilt tray first. Once it was ready, I then had a little bit of time to pack a small bag to take on the Cessna 210 later in the day. So, I had a shower in the Karavan and then packed it up for travel behind the recovery truck. In a short time the whole lot was gone and we became homeless!!

So into the Visitor Centre of the Ranger Station as it was in the shade and cool. We stayed there until about 1430. During this wait time, we did speak with lots of visitors to the Park either arriving or departing. Eventually, we were given a lift to the Purnululu airfield in the Park by Barry and his wife Barbara who are looking after the camp near Bellburn as volunteers.

On the way there, Prue mentioned that she knew one of the Pharmacists, Rachael, at Lennox Head Pharmacy. Barry then said he knew her parents and they had their tent beside his caravan but they had gone for a walk. As we drove to the airfield, we came across them. They were amazed and were lovely people. They were looking after a camp near Turkey Creek.

Soon we arrived at the airfield. This is where the helicopters and fixed wing aircraft arrive and depart on the various tours. The helicopters do short flights around the Bungle Bungle area while the fixed wing aircraft do longer flights mainly to and from Kununurra on scenic flights. It is a very busy area during the day. A short time later our Cessna 210 arrived from Kununurra with passengers for an overnight stay and tour. We boarded with another couple. The flight was fantastic. We flew past the various gorges and walks in the Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park seeing so much. Not very long later, we departed Purnululu for the Argyle Diamond Mine.

We arrived overhead the Mine and did and orbit of this massive operation which is owned by Rio Tinto. We learnt that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth owns 48% of the mine and so making her one extremely wealthy person. This mine even has its own airport which is the biggest private airport in the Southern Hemisphere and is over a $250 million deposit of diamonds. It is also built in the wrong direction for the prevailing wind. A Boeing 767 can land on this airport run way. The staff mainly work 10 days on and 4 days off doing both day and night shifts. It is a continuous operation.

After Argyle Diamond mine we tracked for the western shore of possibly the biggest manmade lake in the world, Lake Argyle. After having cruised on it last week, we did see the extent of the lake and it is massive. About 60 kms long and not much narrower.

Finally, we then tracked for Kununurra airport. It is a very busy airport in the late afternoon. Having headsets on, we were able to hear the traffic inbound for the airport. Not only the tour aircraft, which are numerous, but also the Commuter aircraft arriving and/or departing for either Darwin or Perth or Broome. Just looking out the windows enabled us to spot aircraft in the circuit area preparing to land. As we lined up for the landing, we could see another touchdown and hurry off the runway for us. This was also the case for our aircraft, too. We parked and then made our way to the Slingair terminal where we paid for our flight and caught the bus into town.

Our night was booked and paid for by NRMA Premium Care in the All Seasons Motel Kununurra, a part of the Accor Group. A nice room to sleep in and also a nice but expensive meal. So that was our day.

Monday 28th July

At the Bungle Bungle.

We awoke to our coolest morning for some time, 6 degrees. However, by the time the sun was up, the temperature was rising very quickly. By 1400, the temperature was about 32 degrees. A big variation during the whole day, but nice.

This morning, unfortunately, was taken up with getting sorted out with our damaged vehicle. Numerous long phone calls to the insurance company. Then waiting for return calls from the Tow truck operator, the Repairer in Kununurra and the Insurance Company.

We started at about 0800 and finished about 1130. Then we came back to the vehicles and sorted out the dust in the back of the Bravo, especially. Many of the covered tubs had dust on them and at some stage they are going to have to be removed. Even the other items had to be dusted off. After doing this it was too warm to go walking to the nearest lookout about 2 kms away. Probably later in the day or even tomorrow morning.

During this time, I was asked if I could do a massage. So the table and its cover had to be dusted off. Never know when a job comes up. Having no vehicle means we cannot get to see much at all.

After all the calls this morning, the final plan is that the Tilt Tray recovery truck will be here about 1300 tomorrow and will take the Bravo and the Kimberley Karavan back to Kununurra. They will probably be back in town early evening. We have booked for a week in the Caravan Park we only left on Sunday morning.

Rather than go with the Tilt Tray we have opted to do a flight from the Bungle Bungle to Kununurra with Slingair. They depart the airfield here at 1545 and we get the scenic flight over the Bungle Bungle, Lake Argyle and the Argyle Diamond Mine. The only disadvantage is that we will not have walked through the great spectacle. So close yet so far! The flight will be spectacular, I am sure. We had thought about doing it when we returned to Kununurra but not this way.

The Park staff has been so friendly and very helpful. This has made our situation more bearable. As we look as though we will have to terminate our tour, we are having a Barbeque this evening with the 5 staff that is here. They said they would enjoy that. They are mostly here for at least 2 weeks before they go to town, so the mention of some red wine and nice steak is welcome. A very nice evening with these kind people and they enjoyed our Kurrajong Downs Soft Red Wine, too.

Sunday 27th July

Today we set off for our Bungle Bungle visit. After a quick ride out to the airport and around the town, I returned to the caravan park and commenced packing up. Meanwhile, Prue was preparing our evening that was to complete its preparation in the wonderful Dreampot.

We managed to leave Kununurra at about 1000. The drive to day would be around 300 kms with the last 53 kms of four wheel drive standard. The first quick stop we made was just after the T section junction where the Victoria Highway joins onto the Great Northern Highway that goes up to Wyndham or down to the south and which is the way we were going. Checked around the tyres and all around the whole rig.

A bit further on we stopped at the small Doon Doon Roadhouse, owned by the local aborigines. It was very inviting as there were lovely flower beds and they were attempting to get grass growing in the developing caravan park. In a few years it will look very good. We had a drink and rest there. The day was really warming up by now but nice.

A while later it was our lunch stop. We stopped at Warnum (or Turkey Creek) and had something to eat and drink. We chatted to some other people that had just come out of the Bungle Bungle so we had up to date information on the road.

So off we set again. Eventually the big road sign appeared with Purnululu National Park (Bungle Bungle). Prue opened the gate from the highway to go in. This gate is here as the first 35 or so kms is on Mabel Downs Station and basically private land.

The road in was gravel, rocks, bull dust, corrugations and several creek crossings with about 350 mm of water. Overall, I think I have travelled on similar shire roads around various states. The road was suitable for about 25 to 35 km/hour and little bits a bit slower. WE passed about 16 vehicles coming out on our way in.

Part the way along, I noticed that the rear tailgate had jarred open. It had let in a bit of dust and I did lose a spirit level and a welding glove. We could have lost chairs but they had remained tightly in the back.

Eventually, we arrived at the entrance to the Park Visitors Centre. We hopped out and to our shock we had severe damage to the Mazda Bravo. On closer inspection, I found the chassis had bent, on both sides, just over the rear drive axle. The loading board, at the top, and the cabin were separated by about 150 mm. So making a V shape gap.

We found the Ranger as the centre had closed for the day. He was so helpful and guided us to a secure park, near his cottage. He then gave us the Park phone to make necessary phone calls to such organisations as NRMA and to our insurance company. We must have been on the phone for more than one hour getting it partly sorted. Finally we received a case number and were asked to ring again in the morning as they would have things a bit sorted by then, especially as there is a two hour time difference between here and the east coast.

Finally, we set up the Karavan and soon had a beautiful dinner washed down by a bottle and a half of our favourite red wine! The problems faded away for the rest of the night.

Saturday 26th July

No photos today.

This morning was one of those different mornings in that there was no rushing to get packed up or ready to go for some tour. So, I went for a 30 km ride from the Caravan Park out to Ivanhoe Crossing and returning by riding through the town. A nice flat ride and I was able to push the old Giant mountain bike up to 35 km/hour on the way out. However, as I returned to town, the wind came up or at least it may have assisted me to keep the speed up going out. I did manage to maintain around 28 km/hour on return.

Prue was getting washing under way while I was out. Luckily, the laundry is about 40 metres away and the clothes line even closer.

I set up my massage table and then had a shower in readiness for the 3 massages I had to do this morning. All were interesting people and apparently enjoyed their massage.

While I was busy, Prue walked into the town and had some digital photos printed and then visited the Lovell Gallery again. She met Nadeen Lovell and chatted with her at length.

She returned as I finished and then towels to the wash. A nice fellow traveller offered to hang the towels out when they were washed. She said she wanted a little more to do. One problem we have found is that the red dust gets into everything and is almost impossible to remove.

We went out to Ivanhoe Farm, on the outskirts of the town, for lunch and coffee. It has fabulous food and coffee but the coffee is the most expensive we have encountered so far at $7.00 for a mug!! Maybe it is the freight! Anyway it was really nice.

Then to refuel as tomorrow we move to the Bungle Bungle area. It was about $2.00 per litre. Anyway we have to have it.

Then off to Coles to do the shopping for items we need to ensure we have for the next week or so as we will not see too many shops during that time.

On the way home, we checked out where to go to watch the Wallabies play the All Blacks on television. This is added later. The Wallabies beat the New Zealand All Blacks 34 to 19. The ABs should have won with all their possesion. We watched the game in a Sports Bar on a massive screen with not only a few All Black supporters but also 3 fellows from Tamworth NSW and they included Tony Windsor, the Federal Independent member for the NSW seat of New England, as well as a fellow I was at school with, Steve Warden. Great to spend the time with them and hear their stories of the Canning Stock Route, Mitchell Falls and El Questro. All locations we are going to.

So that is us for today. It may be at least next weekend before we get anything on the blog as we most likely will be out of range of the wireless network. Maybe in Hall’s Creek about Saturday I might be able to up load our Bungle Bungle visit.

Friday 25th July

This morning after some domestic jobs around the Karavan, we left the Caravan Park for a big \day.

Today, we did a wonderful tour of the Ord River, including Lake Kununurra, and Lake Argyle by boat mainly. We were collected by bus from our location and transport to the jetty on a tributary of Lake Kununurra. Here we joined about 40 other travellers for a trip up the Ord River to the base of the dam wall of Lake Argyle.

The boat we travelled on was powered by 3 x 300 hp Suzuki V6 outboard engines. All up, the boat and passengers, the weight is around 8 tonnes. It has a shallow V bottom to allow it to pass through reasonably shallow water. The owner, Jeff, was the very informative skipper. He has a wonderful knowledge of the whole area including the plants, birds and animals, the industries in the Ord region as well as a wealth of general knowledge.

As we travelled up the Ord River, which included passing through Lake Kununurra, we saw many examples of the bird life and the various types of trees, shrubs and grasses. One fact we were told is that there is about 70,000 litres per second passing any given point. Most of that flow goes out to sea while a small portion is used from agricultural or horticultural pursuits in the Ord Valley.

Another fact is that Lake Kununurra was the original storage for the pursuits in the valley by the construction of a diversion dam. This was used for a number of years until the construction of the dam that has made Lake Argyle into the biggest storage in Australia covering about 1000 square kilometres.

After Lake Argyle was filled, it has been used to keep a constant level in Lake Kununurra and so ensures that the irrigation water is gravity fed to the farms. They pay only $3 per megalitre which is so cheap compared to all other areas of the country which pay up to at least $2000 for the same volume. The disadvantage is that the produce from this area is subject to heavy freight costs due to the distance from markets. There is enough water in Lake Argyle to keep this area going, without any rain, for many years. The catchment area is massive although the rain is not so big, about 830 mm per year.

We had a beautiful lunch consisting of 3 cold meats, salads and fruit preceded by cheese and biscuits. This was prepared by the company’s commercial kitchen. Cool drinks and tea and coffee were on hand to quench any thirsts.

After lunch we arrived at the base of the Lake Argyle dam wall where we left the boat for a coach. The coach took us to a lookout where we could see only a small area of the massive water storage. The furthest part of the Lake from the lookout is over 60 kms away and so the horizon hides the end.

Then the coach took us for a visit to the rebuilt Durack’s Argyle Downs homestead. It was removed from the floor of the Lake and is the only building saved as the Lake filled quicker than was expected so many buildings are still under water and never likely to be seen again. Also, in the homestead were various items relating to the Durack family and some of their aboriginal employees.

From the Durack homestead we then went to the Lake Argyle wharf where we boarded another impressive boat for our sunset cruise on Lake Argyle. First up we went around to the dam wall and were told of its construction which is a clay core and protected by granite rock which was obtained from blasting a hill nearby. This hill is now part of the emergency ‘relief valve’ if the water was getting close to overtopping the wall. There is a spillway a bit further around that takes normal overflows. The base of the wall is 300 metres wide.

The mountains and hills, that are now submerged, have become islands in this most scenic and massive lake. On these islands are remnants of animals trapped when the water rose. The submerged hills were cleared by various organisations and volunteers before the water inundated them.

Eventually, the afternoon was fast getting away and we slowly made our way back to the wharf. Before we did, we stopped to have drinks and nibbles’ as the sun dropped over the horizon. Several travellers jumped in for a swim. Some great colours were seen of the sunset and just after.

Finally, we joined the coach for the 50 minute drive back into Kununurra. This is a trip not to be missed. Prue and I would really like to see this area in the “Big Wet” during January or early February some time. The waterfalls would be active and the volume of water would be some much bigger and faster.

Thursday 24th July

Today has not been our best day. It started badly with Prue seeing two indigenous people attempting to gain entry to our Mazda Bravo at 0100 this morning. Thankfully, it has good locking all over it and they did not get in. To top off a bad morning, we have mislaid a set of Karavan keys. This made me feel sick in the stomach but both are feeling a bit better now.

After reporting the incident and the missing keys to both the Caravan Park staff and the local Police, we moved on with our day.

We first went up to the lookout just above the town and what a wonderful sight. The town set out with lots of trees and outside the wondrous scene of the Ord River Irrigation Area. This appears to go on for almost as far as we could see. A variety of irrigated crops and also sandalwood plantations are planted and growing on this area. It was a treat to see this oasis in what is a very dry landscape adjacent to it.

As we drove around this area we went to the Ivanhoe Crossing of the Ord River. We watched a Toyota Landcruiser cross over at about 350 mm depth. I decided I did not need to cross this area. As we entered into the Crossing area we noticed a coach belonging to Keating Coaches from Gunnedah about to leave. After we left this area we travelled a short distance to the Fruit Bowl. Here again was the Keating Coach. We went inside and were happily surprised to find Brian and Aldath Hailes along with Kevin and Kerry Keating all from Gunnedah. We were all surprised to see each other and caught up on some things that have happened around Gunnedah. They left with their passengers as Brian was co driver with Kevin.

We then drove a little further to the Hoochery which is the first legal distillery in Western Australia. We took a guided tour through the establishment. It was quite small but the tour was very personal. A great description was given to about 20 people by the resident distiller. After the tour, tastings of the end products were able to be had. Prue and I tried the Chocolate Coffee Liqueur. Very nice drop.

Then we drove into Kununurra after a phone call from Helen Parrington, originally from Alstonville, who flies aircraft for Slingair based at the airport. We had lunch with her and a pilot colleague. We talked about the various flights around the Kimberleys and the ones they felt may interest us the most.

After lunch, we checked and collected our mail from Lennox and returned to the Caravan Park. I prepared the massage table for a job later in the afternoon. While I did a massage, Prue went to the Lovell Gallery and is enthused by the art there.

Eventually, the young lady arrived and she chatted while I worked on her and we found we knew a lot of the same people. I seem to make connections every where it seems. Just as I finished, another young lady came and booked 2 massages for Saturday morning. The one departing said to the other I did a very good job. Nice to hear the compliments. Maybe someone has instructed me well!

Wednesday 23rd July

The photos today are what we passed on our way to Kununurra.

Today,we travelled to the region known as the East Kimberleys and into Western Australia. We left our lovely caravan site at Timber Creek and hit the road for the west. The scenery was ever changing and the colours are so unique, in my mind. I think it is hard to replicate the mauve type colour. Beside the road were all sizes of boab tree. They remind me of a description I saw once that described them as having been pulled out of the ground and the leafy end buried with the roots pointing to the sky!

We did not pass any real settlements along the way but passed by such well known station names as Auvergne and Bullo River. Eventually, we arrived at the West Australian border where there is a very thorough quarantine check to ensure not fruit, vegetables and some nuts along with numerous other items are not taken across the State line. This is to ensure no disease or insect gets into the rich Ord River area and also other regions in WA. WE had a feast of vegetables and fruit last night to ensure nothing was put in the quarantine bin.

After the border, we travelled for about 20 minutes and then entered the wonderful and green sight of Kununurra. Luckily, we had booked a site at the Town Caravan Park as there are no vacancies in town at any park. Some are even in the showground so may as well be in an off road park as there are no facilities for them. Our park is about 3 minutes from the main street of this town of around 6000 people.

After checking in to the Caravan Park, we went to the information centre for some more information as well as that we were given by the Caravan Park staff. We gleaned information on all the areas we plan to go such as the Bungle Bungle, Gibb River Road and other more local items. We asked for advice on some where nice to go for lunch and were told that there was a nice place known as Ivanhoe Road farm. It has beautiful cold meals for lunch and off course a cappuccino that was good. They also have for sale a variety of vegetables and fruit that is grown on or near the farm on the irrigation area. Highly recommended by us.

Following our lunch, we returned to town and bought another camera battery as one is showing more than a few signs of wearing out. Of course it was a lot more than we could get it elsewhere away from the top end of Australia.

Back to our caravan site and some planning for the next few weeks, e.g., how many days are we out form here, when will be back here, what food is required, etc.

Late in the afternoon, we had a visit to our site from a young couple asking if I was doing massage. So, of course I advised I could and we chatted and made a time for her. They are on a working holiday from Balranald, near the Victorian border. A very interesting couple with lots of information for us on our proposed tracks. So work and pleasure tomorrow.

Tuesday 22nd July

We only travelled a short distance to our next stop over location, Timber Creek. It was about 95 kms from Victoria River to Timber Creek. The Caravan Park in Timber Creek is so nice and shady with not too much dust around. The ablution block is just about 50 metres away.

Timber Creek is just a speck on the map but it attracts many travellers like us. Tonight there are about 60 caravans in the park. One of the high lights of the park is crocodile and other wild life feeding late in the afternoon. That attracts a lot of the travellers.

After we arrived here, we made various phone calls and checked emails. There was no phone or internet service at Victoria River. We had a bit of a wander around the complex and then had lunch.

After an early lunch, we had decided to visit part of the Gregory National Park which is not far from here. Our decision was to go to visit Bullita Homestead and to get there we travelled 46 kms on a gravel road of varying standard. We arrived at Bullita and found several other travellers we have seen around already there.

Bullita was originally part of Humbert Station and was an outstation first. This area was owned at several times by members of the famous Durack family who were among the first settlers in the region.

The buildings are predominately covered by corrugated iron sheeting. I guess because it was easy to transport. The floors were concrete but some of the frames were either timber or steel. Termites are a problem in this area and even fences do not have wooden posts. The other buildings around Bullita were storage, workshop, butchers shop or another tiny residence.

Inside the home, there are many items telling of the history of the region and also several letters written by former residents. These letters told of the hardships that they endured on this station especially relating to the isolation and limited communication.

One letter written in March 1977 by a Mrs Lyn Berlowitz, described how she endured very late monsoonal rain. Her husband was out at a station camp working cattle and the rain came late and so trapped him away from home. The East Baines River, which flows into the Victoria River, is no more than 50 metres from the back of the house. She was awakened during the night to the sounds of things falling in the kitchen. On inspection by torch, as the generator was shut down due to electrical storms, she found a big brown snake on a shelf. She attempted to shoot it with a hand gun but instead put holes in the corrugated sheet wall. The snake was injured and disappeared but she sat up the rest of the night unable to sleep. She checked the rain gauge, which had overflowed, in the morning to find more than 250 mm of rain had fallen. She called into the RFDS to report her rain and that she was experiencing severe flooding.

Mrs. Berlowitz went and tried to save a favourite female dog and her pups. She tried to carry the pups in a mail bag but could only manage to carry two and encourage their mother to high ground. The river was rising very fast and she was unable to save the remaining pups. But her drama was only just beginning. On trying to return to get the other pups she was caught by the flood current and struggled to save herself. Eventually, she caught onto a fallen tree and there she stayed for many hours and the water continued to rise. She struggled to stay there with her arms crossed around a branch and standing on one foot. The water covered all but her head. She watched big trees being washed out of the ground and float past her and other debris, too.

Finally the water started to recede almost as quickly as it rose. Soon she was able to leave her tree and wade back to her home to find it had been inundated and everything in it was damage or destroyed. While doing this, her female dog found her and soon after she heard the sound of a pup barking. She went and found the runt of the litter was the only survivor and it went crazy with excitement on being found.

Mrs Berlowitz’ husband eventually managed to walk at least 10 kms through flooded country to get home after an aircraft had dropped a message to her saying he was on the way.

As their home and possessions were destroyed, the local community managed to get together to help them try to recover. One final thing that Mrs. Berlowitz wrote was that they would stay there to try to recover and that they owed the bank $20,000 and wanted to clear that. They sold the station not many years later. Eventually, it became a part of the Gregory National Park.

So if you think you have problems, remember this little bit of Northern Territory history.